Category: Latest

The construction of a Made to Measure Jacket

Chest Piece and the importance of great Canvas

The construction of a Made to Measure Jacket is largely unseen. Much of the beauty is inside; the skeleton, if you like, the jacket.  When choosing Made to Measure tailoring: never compromise. Never use a fused chest piece or inferior canvas. Always insist on a high grade floating chest piece. always!  Body Canvas: A floating, half canvas chest for the ultimate feel. The Chest canvas has a memory and over time moulds to your shape. I prefer half canvas it’s a little lighter. However, a full canvas construction provides shape and structure through the whole front of the jacket and will endure for the lifetime of your suit jacket. Either way, high quality canvas and felt is the only way to create a quality jacket.

As I said earlier I prefer a half canvas construction because it is lighter with many of the advantages of full canvas. For those who appreciate the benefit of fully canvassed tailoring, Bailey uses this method. A fully canvassed coat Is a little heavier with more support and offers the ultimate in structure, comfort, style and longevity. see https://baileybespoketailoring.co.uk/bespoke-suits/

Baileys construction preference

Bailey’s made to measure garments are made to customer specifications. However, I have a preferred house cut. A capped or roped shoulder (a raised shoulder edge to give star to the jacket) to enhance a slim, flattering silhouette with softly padded lapels. I love a suit that flatters and feels comfortable to wear. A high armhole, for me is essential, it ensures fit and movement. I use a shoulder pad to flatter the individual wearer and ensure a modern fit and a suit or jacket that lends subtle (or not so subtle) authority to the wearer.

Fabric.

Finally a fabulous world class fabric from mills. For some fabulous stories of excellence and tradition click any of the links below:

https://www.dragobiella.it/en/about-us/   https://www.hfwltd.com   https://www.reda1865.com/row/heritage   https://uk.loropiana.com/en/our-world/our-excellences  https://www.dormeuil.com/en/fabrics/     https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com

Many stores and even some tailors sell jackets that are fused together (glued together in simple terms). This is ok for a less expensive option and I would not criticise this method. It has created some excellent jackets and coats at affordable prices for men. That said you should not pay £200 plus for a fused jacket. There are many good ones around for less. And if you want better then call me.

An entertaining video (most of which I agree, the exception being the reason to choose half canvas) along with images and an explanation can be found here: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fused-half-full-canvas-suit-construction/

Being a Gentleman will never go out of Fashion!

The Oxford Dictionary describes a gentleman as “a chivalrous, courteous, or honourable man.”

And as I believe being a Gentleman will never go out of fashion how can we achieve that desired title “The perfect Gentleman”.  We try hard to be all things to all men (and women) in the ever changing world where etiquette and norms of behaviour shift on an alarmingly regular basis. For many confusion reigns over, ethnic terms, how to greet each other, which pronoun do I use? Exactly what is deemed acceptable when speaking to the opposite sex.  To quote Eddie Izzard After pronouncing he had been promoted to a she/her. “But I prefer she/her, don’t mind he/him, and I’m going to be relaxed about it. It’s not the time for fighting each other on this.” 

However, the term “he is the perfect gentleman” is still a mark of achievement and respect.

So how do we define a gentleman? Put simply; with a great deal of difficulty. I imagine my definition below is already out of date and I will undoubtedly upset some or a number of sectors of our society. If I do please forgive me and help me understand where I have got it wrong. 

  Here is my stab at defining what it means to qualify as “a perfect Gentleman”

1. Offers to carry a heavy case or something a lady, or maybe that should be anyone, is struggling with. This is a chivalrous act and marks a man out as thoughtful
2. A gentleman is always  well-presented. No matter the company, never dress down. It helps if you manage to wear a unique piece of Bailey’s clothing!                                                                                                                       
3. Offers his coat or jacket when the weather turns a little cold or unpleasant.
4. A gentleman offers his coat or jacket when the weather turns a little cold or unpleasant
5. He never tells! Or spreads gossip and engages in tittle tattle. He protects others from malicious intent and confronts those who are in the wrong.
6. Buys you flowers ‘just because’ you deserve it.
7. A true Gentleman can dance and always makes his partner feel special.
8. A true gentleman is confident, never arrogant.
9. Regularly offers to make dinner. 
10. Makes conversation with your friends and loves the idea that you are his partner and a valuable one too. This trait also spreads to those he meets: he knows how to make the other person feel important.
11. Walks you to a destination rather than point out the way.
12. Surprises you with thoughtful gifts and tokens of affection. 
13. A gentleman knows that anything worth having is worth working hard for Shortcuts, free rides, those tiny samples of aftershave that come stuck to pages of magazines — these have no place in a gentleman’s world. Work for your luxuries, and your achievements will taste even sweeter. A gentleman knows that you only get what you give: and rightly so. 
14. A gentleman almost never lies! Lying is the antipathy of being a gentleman and instead makes you a scoundrel. There are exceptions: if someone solicits and opinion about their appearance discretion is the order of the day. Perhaps not a lie but not always the full truth! It is Acceptable to fib about Father Christmas or 
15. For a lady, a gentleman always offers his seat and opens the door. This gentlemanly gesture is simply very good manners and gentlemanly politeness. Long may it continue.
16. A gentleman will always ensure his partner gets home safely. This is simply chivalry at its best.
17. A true gentleman can and will cook. To prepare a meal for your partner is simply one of the most generous thing a gentleman can do. Oh, and see to the dishes afterward.
18. Carries you home from a great night out if your shoes are hurting or your heels just a little too uncomfortable.
19. Always lets you know if any part of your clothing is inadvertently tucked into your knickers.
20. Allows you to pull in front of them in traffic
21. Will watch rom-coms with you without complaining
22. Sleeps in another room when coming home late so as not to wake you
23. He likes your pictures and posts on Insta, TikTok and Facebook: however embarrassing.

A number of polls reveal that not enough men showed the behaviour of a true gentleman. Polls show that women enjoyed having the door held open and a drink poured for them and all partners enjoyed receiving flowers or a gift sent with feeling. 

I believe a Gentleman will never go out of fashion: do you?

Follow this link for an entertaining and more thorough view of what makes a gentleman: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/gentleman-what-it-means-today/

What do you think?

Your tailored clothing is unique. Your clothing is tailored just for you from world leading fabric. Treat your tailoring well and it will reward you by looking fabulous on nights out!!  For complete satisfaction follow these basic instructions on how to care for your tailored clothing to preserve your suit’s longevity.

• It is important to maintain the shape of your suit.  Always hang your jacket on a good hanger: one that fits and supports the shoulders. Always hang your trousers vertically. Hang your trousers from the bottoms. The weight of the waistband and gravity will keep your trousers in shape.
• After use, allow your suit to rest; wearing the same suit for two days in succession can cause damage to the fibres.
• I recommend having your suit dry cleaned as little as possible. You decide, however, remember dry cleaning is harsh and overdone it can reduce the life of your clothing.
• You can always take your suit for a professional press ( I am happy to do this for my customers). This will breath new life into a well worn or slightly abused garment, especially a tailored jacket.
• Brush frequently for a minimum of 30secs: especially Pockets, lapels and shoulders to remove dirt.
• Stains should be blotted immediately. Seek professional cleaning advice if in doubt. Do not rub!
• Creased garments recover well if hung in a warm room free of other clothing. A light spray with clean water and a warm room will speed things up if you are in a hurry.
• Don’t overload your pockets as this will put strain on the seams. My view is have nothing at all in you pockets unless absolutely necessary.
• Unbutton your suit jacket before you sit down to avoid pulling.
• Store your suit in a breathable garment bag for protection.

This link offers some great advice and some videos on How to care for your tailored clothing: https://splurgefrugal.com/clean-suit-without-dry-cleaning/