The construction of a Made to Measure Jacket
Chest Piece and the importance of great Canvas
The construction of a Made to Measure Jacket is largely unseen. Much of the beauty is inside; the skeleton, if you like, the jacket. When choosing Made to Measure tailoring: never compromise. Never use a fused chest piece or inferior canvas. Always insist on a high grade floating chest piece. always! Body Canvas: A floating, half canvas chest for the ultimate feel. The Chest canvas has a memory and over time moulds to your shape. I prefer half canvas it’s a little lighter. However, a full canvas construction provides shape and structure through the whole front of the jacket and will endure for the lifetime of your suit jacket. Either way, high quality canvas and felt is the only way to create a quality jacket.
As I said earlier I prefer a half canvas construction because it is lighter with many of the advantages of full canvas. For those who appreciate the benefit of fully canvassed tailoring, Bailey uses this method. A fully canvassed coat Is a little heavier with more support and offers the ultimate in structure, comfort, style and longevity. see https://baileybespoketailoring.co.uk/bespoke-suits/
Baileys construction preference
Bailey’s made to measure garments are made to customer specifications. However, I have a preferred house cut. A capped or roped shoulder (a raised shoulder edge to give star to the jacket) to enhance a slim, flattering silhouette with softly padded lapels. I love a suit that flatters and feels comfortable to wear. A high armhole, for me is essential, it ensures fit and movement. I use a shoulder pad to flatter the individual wearer and ensure a modern fit and a suit or jacket that lends subtle (or not so subtle) authority to the wearer.
Fabric.
Finally a fabulous world class fabric from mills. For some fabulous stories of excellence and tradition click any of the links below:
https://www.dragobiella.it/en/about-us/ https://www.hfwltd.com https://www.reda1865.com/row/heritage https://uk.loropiana.com/en/our-world/our-excellences https://www.dormeuil.com/en/fabrics/ https://vitalebarberiscanonico.com
Many stores and even some tailors sell jackets that are fused together (glued together in simple terms). This is ok for a less expensive option and I would not criticise this method. It has created some excellent jackets and coats at affordable prices for men. That said you should not pay £200 plus for a fused jacket. There are many good ones around for less. And if you want better then call me.
An entertaining video (most of which I agree, the exception being the reason to choose half canvas) along with images and an explanation can be found here: https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/fused-half-full-canvas-suit-construction/